Chosen Solution
Replaced carb, fuel lines, fuel filer, checked spark arrestor, use true fuel only - I am baffled
@louis56 when you rebuilt the carb did you by chance reroute the fuel line so it is closer to the exhaust ? This sounds like as the engine gets hotter the power goes away and this can happen if the fuel is vaporized in the fuel lines . Just something you might want to check . Hope this helps
We are missing the most important pieces of info; sound & smell. We must assume the fuel/oil mix is correct. Regular 2-cycle oil should show small wisps of smoke as you pull the trigger. The hotter it gets, the smaller the wisps. If you cannot see the exhaust, it is not being lubricated. Add more oil. Once it stalls & stops. Does it still have good compression ? Can you remove the muffler and easily blow thru it ? No back-pressure allowed. While its apart, is the exhaust port sooty ? Clogged ? Can you see the piston rings ? Was the compression weak when it stopped ? Drop a bit of heavy oil onto the piston rings, then slowly crank the engine. At each revolution, the compression should increase. Further steps will entail dis-assembly. Look for air leaking into the crankcase which leans the fuel mixture. Broken clutch springs, bad bearings, bushings, plugged gascap, and such problems, all add to the strain on the little engine. Please let us know what you find.
Carb Adjustment solved my problem - Funny they say you cant adjust these but I found out you can and need to - Please view video showing you how to get to adjustment screw - Thanks everybody who helped with many ideas and suggestions - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81OinDUO… Louis
Had the same problem. Put in a new coil. Voila. Life is good again. Cost of coil $65.00. Cost of new machine in PA with tax - $339.00 Warning: Echo really jerked the parts vendor around. Kept stalling on their shipping date, found a guy who had the part in hand. If I waited on Echo, Christmas would get here first. It’s not a hard job. Disconnect Wiring Disconnect throttle cable Remove the really long screw that tightens the collar that holds the drive shaft housing. Pull out the drive shaft housing. Separate the engine from the cowling that holds drive shaft, and there the coil will be.
Had similar issue where my arm 225 would suddenly stop working after 20 - 30 minutes of flawless operation. After much effort and pulling out my hair. I started to notice a shock would zap me as it cut out. Turns out since I sweat a lot my sweat was getting into the handle where the throttle and the on off switch is. The sweat would get on the connections for the switch and complete the circuit to shut down the machine and keeping it from cranking until it dried up. That’s why it would always start the next day or after a decent drive down the highway. I tried multiple ways to keep my sweat out of the handle with limited success. I finally settled on this fix and this is still how I run it 2 trouble free years later. I disconnected the wires to the on off switch. Problem solved!!! Just the off side though. I do have to pull the choke all the way closed to shut the machine off now but that kills it fast as the switch did. Recrank is not a problem. For the price you can’t beat these string trimmers. That’s the only issue I’ve had out of mine In 3 years up till today when the driveshaft snapped or twisted of on the trimming end for some reason. Hope this helps someone.
Wow I bet you stink with all that sweat
