Chosen Solution
TV model: UN46ES6820F SMPS: BN44-00520A Mainboard: BN94-05878 T-conn: BN95-00578A / BN97-06370A
Hi All, picked up this 46” 2012 Samsung for free, trying to fix it. Current symptoms: Plug in unit, red standby turns on (red), either remote or power button press will get a ‘click’ out of the TV, standby then starts blinking, 5 times, the click again as the relay retries. Previous owner said it stopped working, he tried to troubleshoot and thought it was the power board based on youtube videos. Didn’t fix it (per him). He took the new board out and returned old board in My troubleshooting steps: Removed all connections on main board except 20pin to SMPS. Plugged into AC. Same issue (clicking relay, status LED blinking 5 times, kind of a slow blink, singles)Removed 20pin, SMPS was plugged into AC. LEDs turn on and steadyChecked all the voltages I could, all caps had the same voltages (I dont have an ESR cap testor).Assuming the SMPS board is good since other guy replaced it and it didnt fix it, I replaced the Mainboard with a similar model (ends in W instead of L, very similar)No dice, so I took apart the panel to check the LEDs, the two strips looked to be working and in good condition.To note, as soon as the 20p is connected to SMPS, it clicks and LEDs turn off (SMPS is not connected to anything.I cannot check any voltages on the main board as the click seems to shut off the Mainboard’s power lines Any help? Ive tried using the service manual, but can’t check any of the leads as the mainboard is turned off/no voltage when plugged into the SMPS. First TV repair but I’m usually pretty tech handy. No damage to the boards that I can see
Images attached are the troubleshooting steps I was trying to follow, and the mainboard connections. Can’t test mainboard if SMPS turns off when I connect the 20p
Hi @pyronic_chaos , Were the voltages on the power board at the connector that goes to the mainboard as per what is shown on the board when the mainboard was disconnected? Not sure if this is what you meant when you said “Checked all the voltages I could ….”. Did you test the wires in the mainboard / power board cable for continuity or corroded contacts, i.e. disconnect it from both ends and use an Ohmmeter, you didn’t say. The troubleshooting flowchart seems to indicate that if you aren’t getting the voltages on the mainboard (where you have highlighted it) then to replace the cable and then move on
